April in Cambodia

It’s hot and humid. It’s almost unbearably hot and humid. You sweat walking from the couch to the bathroom or into work. Short walks have you crying a river of sweat. You patronise aircon-only establishments. You flop around like a fish out of water. You want to go dancing on Friday nights but you have to pick the outfit that shows the least moisture. The sweat test is handy. Lick your finger and apply to outfit. See how dark it goes. This is April in Cambodia. Or at least, this is normally April in Cambodia.

This year, there is a difference. This year the rains seem to be here in the dry season. Is global warming and by extension, humanity to blame? Perhaps it is the typhoon in China? Perhaps it’s a higher power wants us to cool down. Whatever it is, I’m lovin’ it.

The ominous black clouds gather in the distance and you know what comes next. Rain. Clean (ish) refreshing rain that forces the temperature down. The wind will then howl around every building site, kicking dust into the air, blinding you as you try to make it home before it starts.

You rush to make the hurricane purchases - water, diet Coke, beer or whatever poison you choose. You have just passed over your dollars and the first drops begin to fall. Oh shit, you are too late! You zigzag between pedestrians and motodops trying to get home before the storm unleashed. Everybody on the street is doing likewise. So not only are you blinded by the rain but you also have to be doubly careful because the driving tends to be worse than usual.

The storm is just a meteorological phenomenon but it does command respect for the elements and an sense of unease may penetrate because we all know that global warming is going to change the face of the planet forever a.k.a. we’re all going to die horribly.

You charge through the lake that is forming in front of your gate and rush upstairs out of the storm. As you sit, waiting for the kettle to boil, watching the storm, the power goes out. D’oh.

You are mostly trapped in your house. No one will deliver food in the rain. No electricity to watch Battlestar Galatica or whatever you are into. No light to read. No credit on your mobile. You sit in the dark and watch the rain, flinching at the thunder and lightening. Pretty sound the house starts to heat up. No fans no aircon. Your ice is melting rapidly in the freezer. Just have another warm beer cos there’s nothing you can do.

Of course you may not have been lucky enough to get home. In this case you are in a shop, bar or outhouse. Perhaps you have taken shelter under a tree (don’t. If lightening strikes…). But you are ok.

After about two hours the rain eases off and you make your way home. You wade through the flood, picking up all sorts of worms and parasites. Try not to think about what else is in the water. Thanks to the drainage in Phnom Penh, the water may be well past your knees. Accept and relax. You will never be able to wear those shoes again. Your flipflops have long since floated away...

But then, for about an hour, or two at most, after the rain, the temperature is lower and it feels so pleasant and you love Cambodia in April!